![]() ![]() Here is another example/comparison done with the R6 and EF 100mm f/2.8L macro. ![]() Thank you for the feedback, excellent as usual Normally, all my edits are done in DPP as my editing needs for wildlife are pretty simple, I use a light touch which is my preference. I need to revisit this stack with Helicon and export tiff then edit. LR or PS would probably do a better job of it. ![]() This is my first attempt at exporting DNG from Helicon and PSP is the only program I have that will edit them. More than likely it's my DNG editing skills in PSP or PSP's handling of DNG. I wonder if that's the benefit of the longer processing time? 90 Shot Stack Processed in Helicon DPP version definitely has more detail. 1/400th, f/2.8, ISO 640, lighting was an LCD LED panel with diffuser. 1/400th, f/2.8, ISO 640, lighting was an LCD LED panel with diffuser.ĩ0 shot stack, Raw shots processed in Helicon Focus and exported as DNG then edited in PaintShop Pro Ultimate 2023. It took Helicon Focus 10 minutes.ĩ0 shot stack, Raw shots edited and processed in DPP 4. But be forwarded, DPP 4 is slohours to process this image. I edit a file, copy the recipe, then batch paste to all shots, and finally send the edited Raw files to the Depth Compositing tool to be stacked. I actually like the ability to edit my Raw files in DPP 4. TBH, if you get your camera setup right, DPP 4 does an excellent job as you can see in my comparison. ![]() After capture, it will then store your Raw on the camera or send them to your PC and open Helicon Focus. You set a focus start point, focus ending point, all of your exposure settings, and it will calculate the number of shots based on your radius or other settings or you can override that. Helicon Remote, on a computer, tethers to your camera and gives you a full screen live view and allows you total control of the camera. BTW, Helicon Focus and Helicon Remote cost me $200 about 4 years ago for a lifetime license and upgrades. Getting firm control of focus stacking in the R5 and DPP 4 is hard to do because it is very basic and simplistic compared to dedicated stacking programs like Helicon. The problem with this is it will pull in pixels that are in the extremities of acceptable focus in the DOF. You can make the FI larger and use fewer shots, then set a larger radius when processing, radius expands how far the program reaches to get pixels to include in the stack. Make sense? This means that I set my FI to a low number, like 2 or 3 and depending on how big my subject is determines how many shots I take. I like to keep my focal planes fairly tight so that the sharpest parts of my DOF are captured and overlap with the sharpest parts of the next focal planes DOF. Now, the camera isn't going to tell you that distance so it's up to you as a photographer to know how deep your depth of field is at the given aperture and distance to get the proper overlap. It determines the distance your focal plane travels. Some people are confused about the "Focus increment" (FI) setting. Helicon FB Tube automatically shifts the focus by one step with each shot thus producing a stack of images of unlimited length that can be rendered into a fully-focused image.I was testing out the 1.8.1 IBIS pixel shifting feature the other night and thought it a good opportunity to do some stacking. Helicon FB Tube is an extension tube with integrated electronic microcontroller designed to enable automated focus bracketing in single or continuous shooting modes. Tethered photography makes focus stacking more accurate, reproducible, and higher quality than can be achieved with manual shots. Tethered photography for Canon and Nikon DSLR cameras: automates focus (DoF) bracketing, which allows precise and uniform steps, advanced exposure bracketing and time-lapse shooting-even all these combined if necessary. Then you can use Helicon Focus to blend all the sharp areas together and Focus stacking software: a post-processing technique that extends the depth of field in your photographs.To use this technique, you take several images of the same scene, focusing your lens on a different part of the object for each shot. ![]()
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